Awosting Falls

I hiked to Awosting Falls in Minnewaska State Park today just to get outside for exercise and fresh air. It is the middle of March, but the winter cold and wind is still with us. I was a little reluctant to spend hours in the cold, but I am really glad that I did. Awosting Falls is one of my favorite places. I used to photograph there often, but have not in the last several years. It was very pleasant to go back, and it turned out to be more comfortable than I expected, as the ravine blocked most of the wind.
There was still at least one foot of packed snow on the trails and more in the woods. The Peters Kill stream was flowing fast, with about half its width snow-free. Hiking close to it was not a safe option, because one could unexpectedly break through the snow and end up in the icy water. The 65-foot waterfall was spectacular. Its ice cone rose about half way up the fall, and the cliff behind the fall was completely covered with ice.
Here are a couple shots from the outing.

Frozen Awosting Falls in winter and the rocky bottom of snow-lined Peters Kill stream. (John Aylward)

Frozen Awosting Falls in winter and the rocky bottom of snow-lined Peters Kill stream. (John Aylward)

Frozen Awosting Falls in winter and the rocky bottom of snow-lined Peters Kill stream. (John Aylward)

Frozen Awosting Falls in winter and the rocky bottom of snow-lined Peters Kill stream. (John Aylward)

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Day 7: Dubois to Moran Junction WY

Today’s Highlights:
Today there was no doubt that it was going to be cold and rainy. So unlike the previous variable days, everyone bundled up. Still, I was only prepared for fall-like weather, not winter weather. The clothes I had were only marginally safe for the 40-45 degree cold. Today’s ride could have been one of the most scenic also, but the weather again robbed us of some magnificent views, especially of the Teton Range after cresting the continental divide from east to west.

Our ride was only 55 miles today. The first 30 miles climbed from 7000 feet to 9500 feet. The highest point was Togwotee Pass. Shortly after that we crossed over the continental divide. Reaching the summit was certainly the highlight of the day. Riders stopped a moment to celebrate and take photos, and briefly forgot about the cold. The next 25 miles was mostly downhill, and mostly steep downhill. It could have been great fun, but going 30 mph when it is 40 degrees is just plain freezing.

I finished in Moran Junction at 12:30, had a quick lunch, and then boarded a bus back to Teton Village.

For the entire week, the staff did an amazing job on every aspect of the event – route prep, meals, road support, etc. They took us through some beautiful landscapes and chose some challenging terrain. If it were not for the unusually cold and wet weather, it would have been an epic trip. For me, it was a challenge.

Tonight, I was reunited with most of my family. I had dinner with two of my brothers, their wives, my older sister, four nephews, three nieces, and Maggie. They even surprised me with a birthday present and cake, which was very special since I spent my birthday on the road and camping out. Spending time with them was the best part of my trip to Wyoming.

Pictures Of The Day:

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Day 6: Lander to Dubois WY

Today’s Highlights:
Last night’s band was amazing. Normally all of our activities end at 9:00 PM, and then it gets very quiet very quickly. As you can imagine, all the riders are ready for some well desired rest so they can get up early and do it all again. But last night a large crowd cheered on the band to keep playing. They obliged up to 9:30, and still the crowd pleaded for more. The fun stopped though, and once again a camp of almost one thousand people went silent under the night sky and tall trees.

It rained a bit last night, but the clouds were breaking up as we broke camp, and there was a stunning purple sunrise. The temperature was in the low 50’s – not too bad compared to other mornings. My day started out great. The rest day was just what I needed and I was riding easily again. Just six miles out of town, we entered the Wind River Reservation and stayed in it all the way to Dubois. We passed some farms and rolling hills of grasslands. There were also many interesting buttes and valley. Views of the Wind River Mountains came and went as the clouds moved across them. We had some rain a couple hours into the ride, just enough to get wet and a little cold. However, the sun came out just enough to dry us off. I reached the designated lunch stop at mile-45 around 10:30 with many other riders.

The day turned bad after that. The sky was very dark in the direction we were going, the wind was picking up, and the temperature was dropping into the 40s. We were headed into a big storm. In a short time, I became completely soaked, to the point where water squished out of my shoes on each pedal stork. It was so cold that both my feet were numb and my fingers were stiff around the handlebars. When I shifted gears, I could not feel the levers. The rain was constant for about one hour. It felt like torture. I also had a minor crash during the storm. My helmet saved my head. For the fourth day this week I questioned my sanity. After that storm, there were moments of sunshine, but there was no relief from the cold.

The bad weather robbed us of some very nice scenery too. It really is a pretty area. We did see a little of the red rock and the Wind River just outside Dubois, but even that was hard to appreciate while focused on finishing just to get out of the cold.

Dubois is a very tiny, quaint Western town, and easy to explore. Many of the riders took time to look around and have a hot meal to warm up. We camped in the city park, and got assistance from many of the town’s residences with luggage handling and meal and shuttles into town.

Pictures Of The Day:

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Day 5: Lander WY

Today’s Highlights:
Today is a rest day, so we did not have to break camp this morning. That alone made the day more relaxing. There were several optional activities available, like white water rafting and hiking, and people from the community volunteered to help cyclist find their way around and with transportation. I chose to go hiking. I got a ride part way up Sinks Canyon to a trailhead, and hiked about 1.5 miles to a waterfall. This canyon is world renowned for rock climbing, and the cliffs are impressive. The vegetation is also more diverse than I expected, and that was quite interesting to see along the trail. It was an easy hike, and the waterfall and the long cascades were beautiful. I stayed a few minutes in solitude. Well, I ride a lot in solitude too, but it was even better to sit on a rock and just listen to the water.

Another highlight of this canyon, and the reason for its name, is that the entire Po-Po Agie River goes underground into a limestone cave, and then rises back out as a spring ¼ mile down the canyon. I visited the Sink and the Rise. It was amazing to see. At the rise (the spring), there were dozens of trout about two feet long. I’ve never seen river fish that huge.

I was back to camp before noon. After lunch I am just catching up on photos and stuff, and some bike cleaning. Maybe I will even rest a little.

Pictures Of The Day:

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Day 4: Pinedale to Lander WY

Today’s Highlights:
Today started at 4:00 AM. The morning routine was different because we had to be bussed 70 miles down the highway to a safer starting point in Farson, WY. After packing up in the dark and getting bagged breakfasts to bring with us, we boarded busses at 5:30. We reached Farson a little before 7:00 and were on the road shortly after. It was another chilly start – 47 degrees, but after a few miles it became comfortable since we were on a long gradual climb. We traveled across a sagebrush plain that one could describe as “the middle of nowhere”, but the speaker we had last night assured us that it was an important ecosystem and full of life. I did see a small heard of antelope far in the distance and one rabbit, but not much else. There were a few irrigated farms along this first section. The River Wind Range was far in the distance, and now we were seeing its eastern side. We also had a newly paved road and a very slight tailwind for a smooth ride.

As we got further up the plain, traveling northeast to Lander, the Winds grew closer and grass was more abundant along with the sagebrush, improving the scenery. We also reach a newly chip-seal road which was a little rough, but not as bad as we expected. The tailwind also increased, so all was good.

The first 30 miles of road was very straight. Sometimes I could see for miles in front and behind me. And it is amazing that with 650 riders on this tour that many times I could not see another cyclist.

The climbing increased from mile 30 to 50, and reached over 8000 feet. Cycling that section was a little work, but more scenic with real live trees! The crew set up a lunch stop for us at the top of the climb. Leaving that summit, we had a great downhill and the scenery was immensely better. The most interesting and beautiful site of the day was the Red Canyon about half way down our long, steep descent. As we dropped into Lander Valley, there were more grassland and more farms, and finally the big town of Lander.

We are staying in the town park tonight, which has nice lawns and very tall trees. It’s pleasant to have some shade in camp. We were entertained by the Native American Eagle Spirit Dancers tonight, and a big bonfire was started and will probably burn long into the night.

Pictures Of The Day:

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Day 3: Hoback to Pinedale WY

Today’s Highlights:
Our stay in the Boy Scout camp included a very good dinner and a great band. I would have liked to sit and watch the band, because they was so good , but instead I listened from my tent while working on photos, and they played right up until I laid down to sleep. Camping out has never been this good. The night was also warmer than the previous two.

We got on the road at 7:00 this morning and after a couple miles we left the banks of the Snake River and headed up Hoback Canyon along the Hoback River. The sun was just rising, but it did not reach down into the canyon for a while. It was 45 degrees for the first hour of riding, but I am getting used to the cold now and it didn’t feel bad at all. It canyon was scenic and the Hoback flowed crystal clear.

Our route started with a 35-mile climb. Although the elevation map showed a very steady climb, it was actually long rolling hills in the beginning, then a very gradual climb that was easy, and only the last three miles were steep and took a little work. We crested at 7800 feet, and then had a very easy 30 miles through high plains into Pinedale. This region is a vast open plain surrounded by mountains far in the distance. The most prominent is the Wind River Range, which was west of us today. It has the highest peak in WY, Gannett Mt.

We had a rest stop in the tiny town of Bondurant – Population 100. Several of the town’s people were there to help hand out things to the riders. This has been the common practice in all the towns that CGY stops in, and everyone has been very friendly and helpful.

Pictures Of The Day:

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Day 2: Victor ID to Hoback WY

Today’s Highlights:
Last night I got out of my tent around 11:00. The moon had not risen and the sky was filled with millions of stars. I could even see the Milky Way. It was amazing. While walking to breakfast just before 6:00, the dawn light hid all the stars, but two bright planets where very close together at the eastern horizon. It was two of those little things that make camping out worthwhile. It was also a more comfortable night with temperatures in the 50’s, but with a strong breeze through the night. We woke to dry tents instead of dew-covered like we had in Teton Village.

Breakfast and braking camp went like clockwork, so I have the routine down now. I was on my bike at 7:05 AM. We rode through Victor (meaning we crossed main street – that’s all there is to it), and continued our trip through Teton Valley. The farms and surrounding mountains are beautiful. It was in the low 50’s when we left camp, but actually dropped to 45 degrees as we traveled through the valley and started climbing. After a bit of climbing to heat us up, we had a very long downhill. It was pretty, and it would have been enjoyable if not for the temperature. Riding 30 mph when it is 45 degrees is very cold. It took a bit of fun out of the long ride. Eventually, we reached Swan Valley, which was also very beautiful. We had a long, flat road through the valley, but we unlucky to also have a very strong headwind for ten miles or more. Once we reached the Palisades reservoir, we started climbing again. The wind slowed down a little, but the sky was very overcast and the cold temps continued. At the 50-mile mark, in Alpine WY, we had a lunch stop. There were a lot of shivering riders there.

The next 22 miles improved a lot. It was still a bit cloudy, but we had a gradual climb that seemed to be just right for staying warm. We also followed the Snake River all the way to our camp in Hoback Junction. There were rafters in the river. I realized that my two brothers and their families had planned a rafting trip that morning and should be near the end, so I started to look for them. The highlight of the day for me was I actually found them! I saw a blue Barker Ewing raft filled with people approaching, and I recognized Mike’s hat. They also saw me (just a biker) high above on the river bank. So I called out and they all responded. It was quick a lucky coincident.

We are staying at a Boy Scoutcamp tonight, right along the Snake River. It’s a very nice spot. There is no internet here, and it’s even difficult to get phone reception. Eventually, I will get to post these entries and the pictures.

Pictures Of The Day:

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Day 1: Teton Village WY to Victor ID

Today’s Highlights:
Sunrise was at 6:30 this morning and breakfast started in the dark at 6:00. I was up quite early and did some pre-packing before breakfast. Afterwards, I was able to break down camp quickly and start riding at 7:00, which was the earliest anyone was allowed to go. Many other riders got on the road too, but it was a slow stream of people rather than a mass start. It was a very cold start, below 50 degrees I think and I froze during the first several miles on the flats. My brother Jim, and his family – Joan, Taylor and Allison – came out to meet me as I rode by the Aspens condos. That was really nice since I will miss them for the rest of the visit in Jackson.

After the first several flat miles, we started the biggest climb of the week – Teton Pass. For that, the cold temperature was just right. I still overheated during the climb. For me, it was very strenuous. I’m sure it was the hardest climb that I have ever done. Not being acclimated to the altitude was certainly a factor, because later on the downhill runs, I still found myself breathing very hard. Actually, all day I couldn’t seem to get enough air.

After a brief photo op at the top of Teton Pass, I headed down the west side to Idaho. It was a very fast 3-mile ride down and very cold since I was soaked from the climb up. The decent brought us into Victor which sits in a large flat valley. The riding was much easier here. Between Victor and Diggs, we cycled on the local bike path, off the roads. It was very nicely paved. At Diggs, we turned east for the second huge climb of the day, up to Grand Targhee Ski Resort. This was not as steep as Teton Pass, but I still thought it was going to kill me. I made though. In fact, I was probably one of the first thirty riders out of 650.

The ride down from Targhee was fabulous – so good that I forgot how painful the ride up was. It was a much longer decent than the Pass, and very winding. Traffic was not an issue, so we could just ride down fast and long. This brought us back to Diggs where the GYC set up a lunch stop. I arrived there around 12:30 and took a short break for lunch.

The last 17 miles of the ride took us on back roads from Driggs to Victor. It is farm country, and there where very picturesque farms with the Teton Range in the background. The flat roads were pleasant, but I was quite tired from the climbs. There was a tailwind for the last five miles, which I really appreciated.

We are camping in a town park tonight. The lawn of the ballfield is very plush compared to last night’s field.

Pictures Of The Day:

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Day 0: Teton Village

Today’s Highlights:
I left Poughkeepsie, NY at 4:00 AM on Tuesday, and after three days of 12-14 hour-long drives I reached Jackson, WY at 3:30 PM Thursday. I visited my father’s memorial in the small local cemetery on the local ski hill, and then walked around town for a while. Finishing there around 5:00, I drove to The Aspens condos and stayed with Mike, Nancy and Jenny for the night.

Friday morning I drove to the Teton National Park entrance in Moose, WY. Then I cycled the bike path from there to Jenny Lake. It was an easy 24 mile ride, just enough to wake up my legs after three days of sitting in the car. The morning was very pleasant – a typical summer day in the mountains. It was about 55 degrees at 9:00 with a clear blue sky, but I quickly felt the warmth of the morning sun at this high altitude of 6500 feet, making for a very comfortable ride. The Tetons looked magnificent as always in the morning light. Brightly colored wild flowers lined the bike path in contrast to the sagebrush plains that lead up to the forest and then to the granite mountains peaks. I also rode past Jenny Lake and stopped at some beautiful overlooks.

I finished my leisurely ride before noon and went back to the condo to relax for a while with Mike, Nancy and Jenny. Tonight I am staying in Jackson at the Virginian. I joined Mark, who I had met on last year’s cross country ride, and we had dinner together at the Gun Barrel restaurant. Following that, we drove to Teton Village and picked up our rider packets in preparation for tomorrow.

You can find information about the ride and the Greater Yellowstone Coalition at this link http://www.cyclegreateryellowstone.com/route/route_day1.html, and I will post actual route details and pictures as I go along. There will not be any internet access at the campsites, so there will likely be a delay in the posts, especially the pictures. I am looking forward to the adventure.

Saturday:
Saturday was the day which we all gathered at Teton Village to get organized, have dinner together, and discuss the route for the next day. There was no ride today, and although I could have ridden on my own, I chose to walk, see some sites, get organized in camp, and just relax. I also had a nice visit with my niece Sarah who works here at the resort.

Reality is hitting now. Our campsite is in a wild field of grass where the elk and deer sometime roam. It seemed a little primitive at first, but I am already getting used to it. I feel a bit disorganized, which is strange because I am living out of only one duffel bag worth of stuff which should be simple. I suppose that once I get the routine down the simplicity of living light will be very organized.

I’m sitting in my tiny tent in the dark typing on my laptop. I haven’t done that before. I think a solar powered battery pack is in my future.

Dinner was good tonight and the service was very well organized. After dinner, some leaders of the Greater Yellowstone Coalition spoke inspirationally about their cause and progress. They announced that we have 650 riders for the week. Our guest speaker was Chris Johns who is the head of National Geographic. He gave a brief history of the role that National Geographic has played in the park systems in this area. He also stressed how this area is still an important focus today. They are working on an issue of the magazine that in 2015 will be completely dedicated to Yellowstone NP. A photographer from NG also spoke about his work around the world, and about several projects in the Tetons and Yellowstone he is currently working on.

It is 10:00 pm and dark, and the camp is very quick. I think I will sleep well tonight.

Pictures Of The Day:

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Day 7: Harper’s Ferry, WV to Temple Hills, MD

Today’s Highlights:
Today we rode seventy-eight miles to complete our seven day, 354-mile cycling adventure from Pittsburgh, PA to Temple Hills, MD. This sets a new single day distance record for Stacia and Joe, and marks the successful completion of their first multi-day bike tour. For Chris and I, it was the first self-supported trip we have made, and we had some of our longest days on the trail in terms of time. Everyone finished strong and happy and without injuries, and with only a few sore body parts which will heal soon.

Riding these two historic trails was very enjoyable. Being in the wood is always peaceful. We were often alone with just the trees and rivers and wildlife. Road crossings were rare and towns even more so. All the people we met on the trail were either on a walk seeking the same peace, or on a bike seeking the same adventure and challenge. Being on a bike frees your mind even more than a nice walk in the woods, because you are always intensely focused on watching for obstacles, negotiating the terrain, and being mindful of eating and drinking in order to survive the long hours of aerobics. All this, while enjoying the surrounding nature, quickly eliminates the thoughts of work and news and normal daily distractions. So, although we had a physically demanding vacation, we are mentally refreshed. Most of all, we enjoyed each others company and comradery, and we will always remember the fun adventure we shared together.

So how did today go? The night in the hostel was just okay. It was interesting to be in a house that hasn’t changed much in 170 years, except for the new bathrooms, thank goodness. However, I would rather just visit an historic site and then stay in some place more modern. We got up early for a 6:00 breakfast that was served by a very pleasant gentleman. The food was very fine, although light for the day’s activity ahead of us. After breakfast, our cycling start was slightly delayed to fix a flat tire. We were on the bikes at 7:30 and rode out of the very quite town of Harper’s Ferry as the low sun warmly lit the buildings and danced off the Potomac River. This was our coolest morning of the week, starting out at 57 degrees, and the air was clear and dry from the north wind, giving us a bright blue sky. Although it warmed up later in the day, it was still very comfortable for riding.

We continued east on the tow path along side the old canal bed, which, as we noted all the way from Cumberland, varied from new forest to a dried ditch to small ponds or muddy pools. I did notice more mosquitoes today though. We were also closer to the Potomac, which widened significantly as we followed it toward the Atlantic, and provided beautiful scenery for us to enjoy. The tow path was dirt and gravel for the next sixty-one miles to Georgetown, and continued to wear on us despite the fun of negotiating roots and rocks and splashing through mud puddles. We passed many more lock houses today, including a few that you can rent for the night and experience what it was like to live in one over one hundred years ago. I guess that would be similar to the hostel we stayed in, except we thankfully did not have to go outside to an outhouse. Some of the locks we saw today were still operational or restored, and it was interesting to inspect them and think about the tremendous work that people put into building and operating the canal.

Although we were nearing Washington DC and the big cities to its east, the trial remained very remote until we were actually in Georgetown. We did not find any food stops along the way. However, we cleverly prearranged a meeting place with Taylor (my nephew) and Maggie for lunch. This was at the Great Falls Park, which was forty-nine miles from Harper’s Ferry, and we reached it at 1:30 PM. Meeting them was the highlight of today. They were so kind to bring us a much needed lunch and water. We had a nice visit and eat lunch on a rock outcrop overlooking the Potomac. Around 2:30, we departed and continued our ride toward DC.

Fifteen miles from Great Falls, we reached Georgetown and rode the last several hundred yards on brick walkways to reach the end of the C&O trail at 3:30 PM. After a brief celebration and a picture at the park sign, we continued to Chris and Stacia’s house. The route included a stop in front of the Lincoln Memorial and Washington Monument. Then we rode over the Memorial Bridge to Alexandria where we cycled on a paved bike path for about ten miles. It was a relief to be on pavement again instead of the rough surface. We had a short ride though Old Town and then reached the bridge over the Potomac to Maryland. There was a big hill climb and some riding on busy streets to finally reach Chris and Stacia’s house at 6:00 PM. Wow, that was a long day! We breathed in a lot of fresh air today.

Once again today, we met Taylor and Maggie, who had done grocery shopping for us while we cycled the last 29 miles. We gathered for a cookout and celebration of our completed adventure.

It was all great fun. Thanks to Chris and Stacia and Joe for a wonderful bicycling adventure and the chance to learn about the Great Allegheny Passage and the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal.

Pictures Of The Day:

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Joe’s pictures of the day:
http://www.aimlesswanderings.com/Travel/2014-GAP-CO-Tail-Ride-1/Day-7-Harpers-Ferry-to-Washingto/

Statistics:
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